AC, Washing Machine & Fridge Troubleshooting Guide (A-Z) — All Brand Error Codes

Usually caused by: 1) Low refrigerant gas due to a leak 2) Dirty filter or coil blocking airflow 3) Faulty compressor or PCB 4) Wrong thermostat/temperature setting. A quick filter clean often helps — if it continues, it likely needs a Gas Charging service or AC Full Deep Clean + Jet Pump.

Common causes: 1) Blocked drain pipe 2) Dirty air filter causing ice build-up that later melts and overflows 3) Low gas causing the coil to freeze 4) Indoor unit installed at the wrong angle. Our Jet Pump/Bag Service clears blocked drains and filters in one visit.

Check: 1) MCB/power supply tripped 2) Remote batteries dead 3) PCB fuse blown 4) Display showing a blinking error code. If power is fine but the AC still won't start, it's likely a PCB fault — send us a photo/video on WhatsApp for a quick diagnosis.

Strange noise usually means: 1) Loose mounting or screws 2) Fan blade hitting an obstruction 3) Compressor wear 4) Debris inside the outdoor unit. Switch it off and book a technician visit so the compressor isn't damaged further.

Try: 1) Replace batteries 2) Point directly at the receiver with no obstruction 3) Reset the remote (remove battery for 1 minute). If the AC display doesn't respond at all even from close range, the IR receiver on the indoor unit may need repair.

1) Musty smell — mould/bacteria build-up in filter or coil, fixed by an AC Deep Clean 2) Dirty drain tray 3) Burning smell — turn OFF immediately, this can be an electrical/PCB issue and needs urgent inspection.

Usually due to: 1) Dirty filter/coil making the compressor work harder 2) Low gas 3) Wrong temperature setting (24-26°C is ideal for efficiency) 4) Old/inefficient unit. Regular Annual Maintenance keeps consumption in check.

This is often a PCB or compressor short-circuit issue, or an undersized MCB/wiring for the AC's load. Do not keep resetting the MCB — switch off at the AC and call a technician to avoid electrical damage.

A loud hum with no cooling, or the outdoor unit not starting at all, points to a compressor start-capacitor fault or a locked/seized compressor. This needs an on-site diagnosis with your AC's brand & tonnage.

Check the mode isn't accidentally set to "Fan" or "Heat". If it's genuinely on Cool mode and still blowing warm air, it's almost always a gas leak or compressor issue.

Ice on the coil is caused by low refrigerant, a dirty filter restricting airflow, or running the AC continuously at a very low temperature. Switch off and let it defrost fully before calling for a gas check.

Usually a faulty room temperature sensor or a PCB fault. The AC keeps running at one temperature regardless of the setting — needs a sensor/PCB check.

Could be a seized fan motor bearing, a blown capacitor, or debris jamming the blades. Running the compressor without outdoor fan cooling can damage it — get it checked quickly.

Check: 1) Water tap fully open & supply pressure is adequate 2) Inlet hose not kinked 3) Inlet filter mesh clogged with debris 4) Inlet solenoid valve failed. A clogged inlet filter is the most common cause and is a quick fix.

Usually: 1) Drain hose kinked or positioned too high 2) Drain filter/pump blocked with lint, coins or fabric 3) Drain pump motor failure. Clearing the drain filter resolves this in most cases.

Caused by: 1) Unlevel feet — use a spirit level and adjust the feet 2) Transit/shipping bolts not removed after installation 3) Unbalanced load — rebalance clothes 4) Worn shock absorbers/springs on older machines.

A door lock sensor fault, a broken door latch, or the machine detecting water still inside can all cause this. Never force the door — this can crack the glass or door frame.

Common causes: 1) Unbalanced/overloaded drum 2) Worn carbon brushes in the motor 3) Faulty motor control PCB 4) Broken drive belt (in belt-driven models).

Usually a worn drum bearing, a foreign object (coin/button) stuck between the drum and tub, or a failing motor. Continuing to run it can cause further damage — get it inspected.

Can be caused by a door lock fault, water level sensor issue, power fluctuation, or an overloaded drum tripping a safety cutoff. Note the exact point it stops and any code shown for a faster diagnosis.

Usually caused by overloading the drum, using too much or too little detergent for your water hardness, or a blocked detergent dispenser. Running a periodic empty hot wash also helps.

Mould/bacteria build-up in the rubber door gasket and detergent drawer is the most common cause, especially with front-load machines. Wipe the gasket dry after each wash and run a tub-clean cycle monthly.

Check: 1) Door seal/gasket torn or has debris trapped in it 2) Hose connections loose 3) Overloading causing detergent overflow 4) Cracked tub (rare, needs inspection).

Check: 1) Power supply & the fridge is actually switched on at the socket 2) Thermostat/temperature setting 3) Compressor is running (listen/feel for a hum) 4) Gas leak (needs a technician). If the compressor doesn't run at all, it's usually a relay/overload protector or compressor fault.

Usually a faulty air-flow damper, a blocked vent between compartments, or a defrost system fault (in frost-free models) causing ice build-up that blocks airflow.

Common in defrost-heater failure, a faulty defrost timer/sensor, or the door not sealing properly (letting in warm, humid air). Check the door gasket for gaps or damage.

Usually a blocked or frozen defrost drain tube, causing melted frost/water to overflow inside instead of draining to the tray below. Can also be a cracked water line on models with a dispenser/ice-maker.

Buzzing/humming is normal compressor operation. Clicking repeatedly can mean the compressor is trying and failing to start (relay/overload issue). Rattling often means a loose part or something touching the back coil.

Caused by: 1) Dirty condenser coils at the back/bottom restricting heat release 2) Door not sealing properly 3) Overloading the fridge, blocking airflow 4) Low refrigerant.

Usually spoiled food, spills in hard-to-reach corners, or mould in the drain area. A thorough clean with baking soda water and checking the drain hole usually resolves it.

Could be a blown bulb/LED module, or (less commonly) the door switch that controls the light has failed — meaning it stays off or stays on regardless of the door.

A torn or loose door gasket lets warm air in, causing higher bills, frost build-up and poor cooling. The gasket can usually be replaced without replacing the whole door.